The Rolex Explorer II, reference 1655, holds a unique place in horological history, not just for its robust build and groundbreaking functionality, but also for its association with two iconic figures: Olympic ski champion Jean-Claude Killy and the legendary Hollywood actor, Steve McQueen. While Killy’s connection is often less discussed, McQueen’s ownership cemented the 1655’s status as a coveted collector’s piece, driving its value to stratospheric heights. This article delves deep into the history of the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, focusing on its connection to Steve McQueen and exploring its enduring appeal, alongside a detailed look at its specifications, value, and variations.
The Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, launched in the early 1970s, represented a significant evolution in the Explorer line. Unlike its predecessor, the reference 1016, the 1655 featured a crucial addition: a 24-hour hand. This feature, initially designed for spelunkers to easily differentiate between day and night in the dark depths of caves, proved incredibly versatile. Its practicality extended far beyond caving, making it appealing to pilots, adventurers, and anyone requiring a clear and unambiguous indication of time, regardless of ambient light conditions. This functionality, coupled with the watch's robust Oyster case and reliable automatic movement, solidified its reputation as a true tool watch.
The 1655's design was both functional and subtly stylish. Its 39mm case, while smaller than modern Explorer IIs, sits comfortably on the wrist. The matte black dial, with its iconic orange 24-hour hand, is instantly recognizable. This orange hand, a key distinguishing feature of the 1655, is often cited as a pivotal element in its desirability. The contrasting color against the dark dial provides excellent legibility, a crucial element for a tool watch designed for challenging conditions. The applied indices and hands, often filled with tritium (later replaced with LumiNova in later productions), further enhanced readability in low-light situations.
While both Jean-Claude Killy and Steve McQueen owned and wore the 1655, it is McQueen's association that has most significantly impacted the watch's legacy. Images of McQueen wearing the 1655, often paired with his rugged, rebellious style, have become iconic. These images, circulated widely through magazines, films, and photographs, transformed the watch from a functional tool into a symbol of cool, rebellion, and masculine style. This cultural impact is undeniable and continues to fuel the demand for the 1655 today. The watch became intrinsically linked to McQueen's persona, embodying his adventurous spirit and uncompromising attitude. It wasn't simply a timepiece he wore; it became an extension of his image, a silent testament to his rugged individualism.
The exact number of 1655s owned by McQueen remains unknown, adding to the mystique surrounding his connection to the watch. However, the enduring images and stories surrounding his ownership have cemented its place in horological history and significantly elevated its value. The watch has become a holy grail for many collectors, a tangible piece of cinematic and horological history.
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